This is the place where I will try and answer your vintage car questions. I will post selected questions and answers here.
Put "Ask Brian" in the subject line and send your questions to:
mail@motoringinvestments.com
The interior is fairly clean
but the dash is cracked from the sun (this is a fairly hot country) but
seats, door panels and carpeting seem to be intact.
I am attaching a few pictures of the car covered in dust in an old
garage where I found it (Brian's
note: Amgad sent photos of what looks to be a W114 sedan).
Is this a car you would take on and is there any advice you could give?
Regards,
Amgad H.
Amgad,
First of all, only embark on a restoration for the fun and
satisfaction of it as they are almost never supported by economics. In
other words even if you do your own work the project will turn out to
have more money in it than what you would have spent if you had just
gone out and purchased a nice car.
Our clients hire us to
restore cars for reasons other than economic such as:
1. The car is an heirloom which will likely never leave the family's
care
2. The client wants to have the satisfaction of having a car restored to
his specifications "his way"
3. The client wishes to know for certain that every aspect of the car's
restoration was done correctly to top professional standards (we provide
a photo documentary of the process at no additional cost)
4. The client wants certain modifications that no existing car presently
has, etc., etc.
To answer your question, yes we would undertake this project
on behalf of an owner who wanted it restored to perfection with the
knowledge that he/she will have way more money in it than he could
likely ever sell it for. Four doors will make someone especially "upside
down" financially as nice ones can be typically be purchased so
inexpensively. Best Regards, Brian
Dear Brian,
I think I have an absolute original 1969 280sl. It was purchased in
Beverly
Hills and then sat in a garage in Montecito from 1984 to about a year
ago
when the daughter of the deceased owner traded it to me for a 2000
CLK420
cabriolet and I do not want to damage the integrity of the original
condition. I
mean this car never had the hard top off as evidenced by the brown
wrapping
paper still on the levers to remove the top in the tool kit. And the
paper
is still on the rest of the tools. It is in spooky good condition. The
owner’s maintenance records book in glove box is current to last oil
change
stamped. I am curious could I have the driver door window crank adjusted
or fixed
it seems a little fragile from use and I don't want it to break it even
though
I am careful or will even the slightest change be regarded as having
lessened its integrity. What is the deal with "original" as you seemed
to revel in
the restoration of a car you felt was virtually perfect? What is the
break
point for originality versus perfect reconditioned experience???
Brian,
Hi Brian,
Two categories of 280SLs occupy the top of the market: extremely
original cars in excellent condition, and cars that have had full,
correct restorations. Cars in these two categories attract different
groups of enthusiasts.
Your car sounds like it might fit the first category. If your car is in
excellent condition, economic prudence would dictate that it be
preserved and used only sparingly, as its value lies in its originality.
If it is not excellent, then its condition has more of an impact on its
value than its originality.
The knobs on brand new window cranks from Mercedes have quite a bit of
play in them, at least the last one I purchased did. However, if your
window crank is about to break you will want to remove and save it,
replacing it with a new one. I think the knob that Mercedes now supplies
is different but at least you will have a functional window and will
have saved an original part that is no longer produced.
Regarding the car that we recently restored for a client, it was
especially original but had tired cosmetics. Our client wanted a car
that looked and drove as new, so he was in the second group of
enthusiasts. In undertaking a restoration, it makes sense to start with
an example that is as original and correct as possible. Regards -
Brian
Dear Brian,
Hello from Athens Greece,
I am writing to ask you about your red 1970 280SL. I read your
description but I wanted to ask if there is something I missed.
It cannot be that perfect, so tell me is there something on the car that
needs attention? What needs replacement in order to be in concourse
condition?
Hi, Literal "show cars", "concourse"
or what we call #1 level cars are not driven. They are transported in
enclosed trailers from show to show never putting a tire on a road. That
is what one must do if he wishes to win shows and gain trophies. A light
coat of road dirt or a scuff on a seat would mean that the "other guy"
wins. As soon as you start driving a show or #1 car it becomes a #2+
car. Keep driving it and it will soon be a #2 car. Drive it as a daily
driver for 5 years with normal care and it will be a #2- car. Drive it
for 10 years and it will be a #3 car. To give a bit more description of
this rating system a #2 car is so nice that the average person in the
street THINKS it is a #1 car. A #3 car is a typical "daily driver" which
has no major faults and is fully functional. Keep in mind that "show
car" means something different to different people. Some guy puts his
car in a local "shine & show" car show and then he can say, "I have a
show car" (even though it is no better than a #3 car).
I hope this all makes sense to you. My red car is a #2+ car. It is
absolutely the nicest car that you would want to actually drive, unless
money is no object. If that is the case then we can build you a #1
car for about $300,000. Then soon after you start driving it, it
becomes a $75,000 car. Regards - Brian
Dave in Montana writes:
I have just found your fine web page today and have greatly enjoyed
perusing it. I am considering the purchase of a Mercedes for my wife
sometime within the next year and am torn between something from the
fifties, like the 190SL or something with more of the modern creature
comforts such as the 280 SL or the 560 SL (Air Conditioning is not all
bad). My initial impression is that the 280 would pretty well fit the
bill. I would appreciate your input as to the relative investment merits
of the models listed above, as well as the comfort level and handling
and drive-ability. This would be a car that would not be driven a great
deal. I see you use the term Pagoda for certain of your automobiles;
what qualifies as a Pagoda. Also in discussing the cars sold at auction
you refer to #3+; I assume this is the same scale that I see in Hemmings
listings. By the way is a 3+ better than a three or higher than a three
and therefore closer to a 4. Also, what is the difference in the above
models and a Cabriolet? I would certainly appreciate any and all
information you can give me relative to the above.
Dave,
The 113 chassis cars(230, 250, & 280SL's) aka Pagodas are the much more usable cars. People like 190's for their more vintage feel and look. Nothing wrong with them but the 280's are more competent amongst modern traffic(read power and disc brakes). Its a bit easier to find a good Pagoda vs. a good 190SL(121 chassis). Also, the 190's were even more susceptible to rust than the 113's.
Karen writes
I have a 1972 Mercedes 350SL. I asked someone to renovate it a few years
ago. He started, got the front end free of rust then stopped working on it.
It has been stripped apart
since then. I saw it when the framing work had been done, everything was
taken out of it, seats, carpet, etc. Now, after 4 years of it sitting
in his garage he is starting to work on it and says there is more work to do
than originally advised. He took it apart before he gave me the original
quote. I have given him $8000 as he bought parts and did work (after he did
the work). Now the cost is $25,000 which includes new paint and rocker
panels (not originally needed), reupholstering seats, carpet, & dash board.
I really like the car. I got it in 1982. It was the first car I ever bought
and only car I ever bought until 2000 when it had to go in for restoration.
Is it worth the investment? If restored correctly will it have rust within10
years if garage kept and only driven on nice days?
Thanks for taking my email. I look forward to hearing your opinions.
Respectfully, Karen
Hi Karen,
Brian W. writes:
I think I have an absolute
original 1969 280sl. It was purchased in Beverly
Hills and then sat in a garage in Montecito from 1984 to about a year ago
when the daughter of the deceased owner traded it to me for a 2000 CLK420
cabriolet and I do not want to damage the integrity of the original condition.
I
mean this car never had the hard top off as evidenced by the brown wrapping
paper still on the levers to remove the top in the tool kit. And the paper
is still on the rest of the tools. It is in spooky good condition. The
owner’s maintenance records book in glove box is current to last oil change
stamped. I am curious could I have the driver door window crank adjusted or
fixed
it seems a little fragile from use and I don't want it to break it even though
I am careful or will even the slightest change be regarded as having
lessened its integrity. What is the deal with "original" as you seemed to revel
in
the restoration of a car you felt was virtually perfect? What is the break
point for originality versus perfect reconditioned experience???
Brian,
Two categories of 280SLs occupy the top
of the market: extremely original cars in excellent condition, and cars that
have had full, correct restorations. Cars in these two categories attract
different groups of enthusiasts.
Your car sounds like it might fit the first category. If
your car is in excellent condition, economic prudence would dictate that it be
preserved and used only sparingly, as its value lies in its originality. If it
is not excellent, then its condition has more of an impact on its value than its
originality.
The knobs on brand new window cranks from Mercedes have quite
a bit of play in them, at least the last one I purchased did. However, if your
window crank is about to break you will want to remove and save it, replacing it
with a new one.
Regarding the car that we recently restored for a client: it
was especially original but had tired cosmetics. Our client wanted a car that
looked and drove as new, so he was in the second group of enthusiasts. In
undertaking a restoration, it makes sense to start with an example that is as
original and correct as possible.
Tony writes:
Hello Brian,
I am looking to purchase a 1985 Aston Martin. The car
has a salvaged title...anything I should know about a salvaged title? I
have never dealt with one before. Also there is some oil and transmission
fluid leaks...is this typical of these cars? The space between the tire
and wheel well from the right side to the left side does not match up...there is
more space on the passenger side than the driver side. Is this because
these cars were hand built and has a certain amount of difference from one side
to the other? Please let me know if you can give me any advice about these
things. Thank you for your time.
Tony,
RUN, don't walk
from this car. Aston Martins are known to have been hand built at one time
but by '85, believe me, quite a lot of machinery and automated processes were
used in their manufacture. The ride height should be the same right to
left. There are two reasons to run from this car. The first is that
it seems this car may have had a severe crash that has not been repaired
properly indicated by this ride height issue. The second and more
important is the salvage title issue. Any time an insurance company ends
up owning a car whether it be from a total write off or a theft recovery the
"salvage" reference stays with the car FOR ETERNITY! Even if a
car with a salvage title was never damaged it will typically sell for a fraction
of what a car with a "clean" title sells for. And, when I say
"fraction" I'm not talking about 7/8's. Put a way,
way smaller number in the numerator.
Invariably when I am
asked this salvage title question people tell me, "but I'm going to keep
this car forever, so the value doesn't matter right"? No, it doesn't
matter unless you don't want your heirs to think you were an idiot. No
offense intended. Just buy a good car.
Bill L. writes:
I own a 1978 MGB with 8,000 original
miles, I bought it this past year w/
only 6,100 miles on it. It is in excellent condition! It currently
sports
15" X 5.5" center-lock alloy wheels (spline drive) with 185/65-HR15
Dunlop
D60-A2 tires. Other options/accessories include (but not limited to); O.E.
oil cooler, period Cibie Bobi headlamps, halogen tail lamp bulbs (8W,30W),
special tuning front sway bar (3/4"), period Alpine am/fm-cassette stereo,
Pertronix ignition system (undetectable installation), Amco floor mats, etc.
Of course it also has it's original top, tonneau, boot cover, tools and
owner's manual. It still has the (factory) inspector's chalk marks on the
timing cover, differential, etc.
Is 93.5 octane going to hurt this engine?? Should I use regular, plus or
ultra in the vehicle. I have been using 89 octane. Also, is the
anything I
should do to this car before storing away for winter? Just recently
changed
the oil and filter. Thanks in advance for your time and consideration of
my
questions.
Bill,
It sounds like you've got a "keeper" there. Due to emissions
regulations
the later model MGB's had lower compression ratios and retarded ignition
timing so should handle the medium grades of gasoline. A rule of thumb
though is if you notice pinging under load then go up a grade in fuel.
Before winter storage would be a good time to do an annual coolant change.
Fill up the gas tank and add some fuel stabilizer. A full tank will be
less
likely to accumulate condensation and the stabilizer keeps the fuel from
breaking down into its component parts. Older British cars' hydraulics
seem
to be susceptible to the ravages of corrosion so now would be a good time to
check your brake & clutch master cylinders, calipers, wheel cylinders &
clutch slave cylinder for leakage and rebuild or replace as necessary then
flush all of the old fluid out with new. Being that standard brake fluid
is
hydroscopic( attracts water, literally "water loving" ) before winter storage would be a good time to
start of with nice new "dry" fluid. This way you at least have a
chance of
rolling your car out in the spring and not finding a puddle of brake fluid
eating away at a painted garage floor. It would be a good idea to place
some of those "mouse be gone" packets under the hood and in the
cockpit.
This discourages rodents from taking up residence in your car and gnawing
away at your wiring and seats. We recently fired up a TR6 that had been
sitting for some time and were sprayed with dry dog food firing from the
exhaust like from a machine gun. Seems a rat was using the inside of the
muffler for a pantry. These are just some ideas that come to mind.